Face the Climate: Big city cattle keepers

The Ntenkese family had to move to the big city When the drought was about to destroy his cattle, Joel Ole Ntenkese – a 33-year-old Masai – moved to Nairobi. Together with his wife and their three children, he left his village in the dry rural area of Kajiado and went to Kenya’s capital in search of pastures for the cattle. By then, only 27 of Joel’s 170 cows were still alive. Today, the family is living in a traditional Masai village along the runway of a busy airport. They find pastures everywhere in the big city: along highways, in parks, on railway tracks, in cemeteries, at the hospital, in the national park among lions and rhinos, and in front of the presidential residence. Life is tough. Although Nairobi is traditionally Masai country, the herdsmen are constantly trying to flee guards from the city council, who fine them or send them to prison. Meanwhile, stray cows are knocked down by vehicles.	Big city Masai Living in one of the big cities of the modern world, Joel Ntekense is sticking to the lifestyle of a traditional cattle keeper. He adheres to the traditional Masai values, while living right next to a busy airport. He carries both a club and a mobile in his belt. And the cows graze by the highway. Play video
	Going back to the village of carcasses The drought has almost destroyed Joel’s old village, but his mother and a few cousins still live there. Occasionally, Joel goes back to provide them with food and collect water for his mother. He is still dreaming of coming back to live in the village. Play video
	Everyday life in the city Masai life in the big city is torn between tradition and innovation. Joel is highly dependent on his cows, but it is also very important that his favourite football team, Arsenal of London, win its matches. He is fighting the drought, but he is also struggling to unite the Masai lifestyle with life in the modern big city. Open gallery The best pastures in the city of Nairobi might be far away. Now and again, Joel and his flock of cows have to cross some of the busiest roads to get there. Years ago, he had 170 cows. Now there are 27 left. 33-year-old Joel Ole Ntenkese. The Masais are very constructive in their search for accessible patches of lush grass in Nairobi. However, it is illegal to have your cattle graze in a cemetery, and the herdsmen risk up to six months of imprisonment. Joel’s wife, 21-year-old Sarah Joel Ntenkese, with their youngest daughter, 2-year-old Naipnaoi Deborah Ntenkese. Cows grazing in front of residential buildings at Kenya’s national hospital. Joel’s wife, Sarah, is cooking dinner over a fire in their shack. She is making the traditional Kenyan dish Ugali, which consists of corn flour and water. Joel is letting his cows graze in a residential area where clean washing has just been hung out to dry. Joel is letting his cows graze in a residential area where clean washing has just been hung out to dry. Joel and his friend Peter can easily read the sports section while looking after their cows. They are dreaming of going to England to see their favourite football team Arsenal play. It is early afternoon. Joel’s and Sarah’s three children are standing in the doorway of their shack. Joel is standing on a wall to get a better view of his 27 cows. The gender roles are traditional. The women take care of the children, the food, the laundry, and the domestic work. The men take care of the cows Joel keeps his cows behind the red door. A funeral home is renting out a former burial site at 5,000 shillings a month. In that way, the cows are closer to the good pastures in city centre, and they have a safe place to sleep. Cows on their way to a pasture. One of the neighbours is having guests for dinner, and he has decided to slaughter a goat. Joel is glad to help, and he makes it fast by cutting its throat with a sharp knife. . It is important that the children learn at an early age that slaughtering and dead animals form part of the everyday life of any Masai. One of the few things that are not used when a goat is slaughtered. Joel’s and Sarah’s oldest daughter, 8-year-old Anne Seenoi Joel, in front of the shack. It is just before bedtime, and all members of the family have been assembled for a short reading of the Bible and a prayer. ”Father, make us winners because you are good,” says Joel, while everybody close their eyes. Joel has gone to the market to sell one of his 27 cows. He needs the money very badly – for food and to pay his children's school fees. The drought has made the prices of cows plummet. Joel gets just over 5,700 shillings for his cow. He had expected 8,000-9,000 shillings.